Casted away in the rain-shadow of the mighty Himalayas, Upper Mustang is a land of untold stories, ancient myths, and unspoiled beauty.
Often referred to as the “Last Forbidden Kingdom,” this hidden gem of Nepal remained closed to foreign visitors until 1992, preserving its unique culture, landscapes, and traditions.
Unlike other popular trekking destinations like the Annapurna Base Camp or Everest Base Camp, Upper Mustang trek offers an unparalleled experience—one that feels like stepping back in time.
From its arid, desert-like landscapes to its ancient monasteries, this region is a treasure trove of history and mystique.
Upper Mustang’s remoteness and limited accessibility have helped it retain a sense of mystery, making it a hidden or lesser-trekked destination that beckons intrepid travelers.
The best part? It’s also a monsoon trek destination, meaning it’s ideal for those looking to explore Nepal during the summer months when other trekking routes are affected by heavy rains.
The Enigmatic History of Upper Mustang
The name “Mustang” is derived from the Tibetan word “Mun Tan,” which means “fertile plain.” However, the landscapes here are far from lush. This region, known as the Kingdom of Lo, was once an independent kingdom closely tied to Tibetan culture, language, and traditions.
Lo Manthang, the ancient walled capital, still houses the royal palace, and visitors can often catch a glimpse of the King of Mustang, Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, who, despite Nepal’s political changes, is respected as a cultural and spiritual leader.
This isolation has allowed Upper Mustang to preserve much of its ancient Tibetan Buddhist culture, with many villages hosting centuries-old monasteries and caves adorned with sacred murals.
Exploring this hidden kingdom offers insights into a culture that has remained relatively unchanged for centuries, a rarity in today’s fast-evolving world.
Why Trekking in Upper Mustang Is Unique
Upper Mustang stands out as a trekking destination like no other, offering an experience that combines remote wilderness with rich cultural heritage. Here are some unique reasons why trekking in this isolated region is truly unforgettable.
1. A Lesser-Trekked Destination
Unlike popular trekking regions like Everest or Annapurna, Upper Mustang remains relatively lesser trekked.
The limited number of trekkers allowed each year helps maintain the area’s pristine environment and unique culture. This sense of exclusivity adds to the allure, making it a destination for those seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure.
Without the throngs of tourists, trekkers can fully immerse themselves in the peace and tranquility of the region, enjoying the raw beauty and silence of this hidden kingdom.
2. Monsoon-Friendly Trekking
One of the best aspects of Upper Mustang is that it lies within the rain-shadow of the Himalayas, making it an ideal monsoon trek destination.
While other popular trekking routes in Nepal might be muddy, slippery, and plagued by frequent rainfall, Upper Mustang remains dry and accessible even during the monsoon season.
This makes it perfect for summer trekkers who want to escape the rains and enjoy a seamless trekking experience.
The clear skies and warm temperatures make it a great time to explore the arid valleys, wind-sculpted cliffs, and deep gorges that define this unique region.
The Desert of the Himalayas
Upper Mustang’s landscapes are unlike anything else in Nepal. Picture a vast, barren desert, flanked by rugged cliffs and peppered with vibrant red and ochre rock formations.
The region’s arid terrain, dotted with isolated villages, ancient stupas, and barren cliffs, is a stark contrast to the lush greenery found elsewhere in Nepal.
The Kali Gandaki River cuts through the landscape, creating a dramatic gorge—the deepest in the world—that offers spectacular views of Nilgiri, Annapurna, and Dhaulagiri.
As you journey deeper into the kingdom, you’ll witness how the geography shifts from gentle, rolling hills to rugged, jagged cliffs that seem to stand guard over the ancient secrets of this land.
These mesmerizing vistas, shaped by millennia of wind and erosion, are often compared to those of Tibet, earning Upper Mustang the nickname “Mini-Tibet.”
Preserving the Ancient Tibetan Traditions
Upper Mustang’s culture is deeply rooted in Tibetan Buddhism, which becomes evident as soon as you set foot in the region.
Here, you will find intricate gompas (monasteries), ancient chortens (stupas), and caves that have been used as meditation chambers for centuries.
The local inhabitants, known as Loba people, have preserved their rich cultural heritage through vibrant festivals, rituals, and age-old practices.
One of the most significant events in Upper Mustang is the Tiji Festival, a three-day ritual celebrated in Lo Manthang that signifies the triumph of good over evil.
The festival, which involves elaborate dances, chants, and prayers, is a colorful and spiritual experience that offers trekkers a chance to witness Tibetan Buddhist traditions at their finest.
If your trek coincides with the Tiji Festival, you’ll be treated to a spectacle of traditional costumes, masks, and dances that have been passed down through generations.
Monasteries and Caves
Throughout Upper Mustang, ancient monasteries and caves tell the stories of the past. The 15th-century Thubchen Gompa in Lo Manthang, the ancient Jampa Gompa (God House), and the Nyphu and Ghar Gompas are just a few examples of the spiritual heritage that flourishes here.
Many of these monasteries are adorned with murals and statues that date back hundreds of years, showcasing the rich artistic legacy of the region.
The cliffside caves of Upper Mustang are another intriguing aspect of its cultural landscape. Some of these caves were used as meditation retreats by monks, while others served as homes, burial chambers, or places of refuge during times of conflict.
Exploring these mysterious caves is like stepping into a time capsule, offering glimpses into the lives of those who once called this rugged land home.
The Tibetan Border: Kora La
For those intrigued by the allure of borderlands, Upper Mustang offers a rare opportunity to trek to Kora La, the border pass between Nepal and Tibet.
This pass lies at an altitude of 4,660 meters (15,289 feet) and marks the northernmost part of the Mustang region, opening to the Tibetan Plateau.
Historically, Kora La was an important trading route between Nepal and Tibet, with caravans carrying salt, wool, and other goods back and forth.
Although the border is currently closed for trade, visiting Kora La allows trekkers to witness the stark contrast between the barren landscapes of Mustang and the expansive vistas of the Tibetan highlands.
Trekking through the Hidden Kingdom
1. The Trail to Lo Manthang
The trek to Upper Mustang usually begins from Jomsom, following the Kali Gandaki River northward. The journey takes you through a series of stunning landscapes, from lush valleys to arid, barren plains.
As you ascend, you’ll encounter villages like Kagbeni, a quaint settlement that serves as the gateway to Upper Mustang, and Charang, which boasts a rich collection of ancient artifacts, statues, and paintings.
Reaching Lo Manthang, the walled capital of the Kingdom of Lo, feels like discovering a lost city. Its whitewashed buildings, narrow alleys, and timeless architecture are unlike anything else in Nepal.
Here, time seems to stand still, and every corner holds a piece of history waiting to be uncovered.
2. High Passes and Wind-Sculpted Cliffs
The trail to Upper Mustang is not just a walk; it’s a journey through a geological wonderland. Trekkers cross high passes, navigate through deep gorges, and walk along cliffs sculpted by wind and erosion.
The dramatic landscapes, coupled with panoramic views of towering peaks, create a sense of awe that leaves a lasting impression.
3. The Magic of the Desert Landscape
Unlike the greenery of most Himalayan treks, the dry, desert-like terrain of Upper Mustang is its own kind of beautiful.
The wind-sculpted cliffs, multicolored rock formations, and endless stretches of barren land are a visual treat for those who love the raw, untamed beauty of nature.
The distinct colors and textures of the landscape shift as the sun moves across the sky, painting the region in a palette of golds, reds, and browns.
Why Upper Mustang Is a Monsoon Trek Destination
Most trekking routes in Nepal are typically best explored during the spring and autumn seasons, when the weather is clear, and the trails are dry. However, Upper Mustang stands out as an exception to this norm.
Situated in the rain-shadow of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, Upper Mustang experiences minimal rainfall, even during the peak monsoon months of June through August.
While other trekking regions in Nepal often face heavy downpours, slippery trails, and disrupted travel plans during the summer, Upper Mustang remains dry, accessible, and ideal for exploration.
This unique climatic feature makes it a perfect destination for trekkers seeking to venture out during the off-season without worrying about weather disruptions.
During the monsoon, Upper Mustang enjoys consistently pleasant weather. The days are warm, with ample sunshine, allowing trekkers to bask in the stark beauty of the arid, desert-like terrain.
Nights tend to be cooler, providing relief after a day’s journey. Moreover, the lack of heavy clouds means clear, sweeping views of the Himalayas are still possible, offering an unmatched summer trekking experience that few places in Nepal can rival.
Choosing Upper Mustang for a monsoon trek also means encountering fewer tourists, making the adventure feel more intimate and personal. The paths are less crowded, allowing trekkers to fully immerse themselves in the serene landscapes, remote villages, and age-old traditions of the “Last Forbidden Kingdom.”
Sustainable Trekking through the Fragile Ecosystem of Upper Mustang
As Upper Mustang becomes more accessible, it’s essential to practice sustainable tourism to preserve the region’s delicate environment and cultural heritage.
Trekkers are encouraged to respect the local customs, minimize waste, and support local businesses. Many of the villages along the trek have embraced eco-friendly practices, and by choosing to trek responsibly, visitors can help ensure that the beauty of Upper Mustang remains untouched for future generations.
Guide to Upper Mustang Trekking: Practical Information
1. Permits and Regulations
Upper Mustang is designated as a restricted area by the government of Nepal, which has implemented strict regulations to preserve its unique culture, delicate environment, and traditional way of life.
Because of this, trekkers are required to obtain a Restricted Area Permit (RAP), which is more expensive than permits for other trekking regions. In addition to the RAP, visitors also need an Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP), as the trek passes through the Annapurna region.
2. Best Time to Visit Upper Mustang
While Upper Mustang can be explored year-round, choosing the right season can greatly enhance your experience. The ideal times to visit are late spring (May) and early autumn (September).
During these periods, the weather is cool and pleasant, making it comfortable for trekking, with clear skies offering stunning views of the surrounding mountains and landscapes.
However, Upper Mustang’s unique position in the rain-shadow of the Himalayas makes it an excellent monsoon trek destination. While other popular trekking regions are often drenched in heavy rains, Upper Mustang remains dry and accessible.
The weather during these months is generally warm, with little to no rainfall, providing trekkers a perfect summer escape from Nepal’s usual rainy season. Clear skies, mild temperatures, and fewer crowds make the monsoon season a particularly appealing time for those seeking a quieter adventure.
For an even more enriching experience, plan your trek to coincide with the Tiji Festival in May.
3. Getting There: Drive and Trekking Options
Traditionally, the journey to Upper Mustang started with a flight from Pokhara to Jomsom, followed by a trek through the stunning Kali Gandaki Valley. This route remains popular, allowing trekkers to gradually acclimatize while taking in the region’s natural beauty, quaint villages, and striking landscapes.
The trek from Jomsom usually passes through the picturesque villages of Kagbeni, Chele, and Charang before finally reaching the ancient walled city of Lo Manthang.
However, for those who prefer a faster approach, a road network now connects Jomsom with Lo Manthang. This allows visitors to drive from Pokhara to Jomsom, and then onwards through the rough, adventurous roads of Upper Mustang, directly to the heart of the Forbidden Kingdom.
While driving can significantly reduce travel time, it also means missing out on the immersive experience of trekking through the varied terrain and remote settlements of Upper Mustang.
Whether you choose to trek or drive, the journey to Upper Mustang is an adventure like no other, offering the chance to explore one of the most isolated and culturally rich regions in the world.
Discover the Untamed Beauty of Upper Mustang
Upper Mustang is a destination like no other. Its combination of raw, arid landscapes, rich Tibetan culture, and the sense of venturing into a lesser-explored part of the world makes it a must-visit for adventurous souls.
Whether you’re captivated by the stunning scenery, the ancient monasteries, or the unique opportunity to trek during the monsoon, Upper Mustang is a journey of discovery, both outward and inward.
It is a testament to the enduring spirit of the Himalayas, a place where the past and present coexist in harmony, waiting to be explored by those who wish to wander off the beaten path.
