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Sishapangma Expedition

Sishapangma Expedition

47 Days
  • Trip Detail at-a-Glance

  • Advanced

    Since this is the most challenging category of climbing, climbers should be comfortable on 45 to 60 degree slopes and/or 5.6 rock at high altitudes and have a well rounded past history of past climbing experience. Your climbing experience should include some high altitude ascents and ability to climb technical rock, snow and ice. This includes climbing some notable mountains such as, or equivalent to, Ama Dablam, Cho Yuo, Baruntse etc. Mt. Everest, Makalu, Manaslu, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Lohtse, etc. belong to the advanced grade.

    Advanced

  • Trip Code: ATH350
  • Best Season: March to October
  • Country Visited: Nepal, Tibet
  • Trip Start: Kathmandu
  • Trip Ends: Kathmandu
  • Destination: Summit of Mt. Sishapangma 8,027 m /26328.56 ft
  • Trip Route: Ktm-Lhasa-Shishapangma base camp -Sishapangm Summit-Zangmue-KTM
  • Trip Style: Overland Tour with stay at the Guesthouse and Tented Camp at the Base Camp and above
  • Activity: Climbing involve with Rope and Ice Axe, Sightseeing and Trekking
  • Max. Altitude:
    8,027 m /26328.56 ft
  • Group Size: Min. 2 pax pax
  • Activity Per Day: 4 to 5 hours of driving tour below base camp and 5 to 10 hours climbing. Summit day can be up to 15 hours
  • Trip Category: Climbing
  • Trip Highlight

    • Explore around Kathmandu.
    • Guided Sightseeing in Lhasa.
    • Exclusive small team with a high guide to climber ratio.
    • High Sherpa ratio – 1 Sherpa with every climber
    • Lead by experienced guides who have stood on the summit of Shishapangma and other 8000 meters peaks.
    • Best Sherpa, support staff and logistics.

Shishapangma officially Xixiabangma is the fourteenth highest mountain in the world and the lowest of the eight-thousanders. It was the last 8,000 meter peak to be climbed, due to its location entirely within Tibet and the restrictions on outside visitation to the region imposed by the Chinese during the 1950s and later. The mountain has two summits, the commonly climbed Central summit that the Chinese say is 8013m (7999m on old maps) which we have reached four times. Naturally, we will be aiming to climb to the higher true summit, 8027m (26,335ft), let's see if we can get there!

Before the Chinese opened Tibet to western mountaineers in 1978, little was known about Shishapangma. The only 8,000m peak to lie entirely in Tibet, it lies tantalizingly close to the Nepalese border, shrouded behind the great, but less high, border peaks of Langtang. Enterprising individuals sought mere glimpses of it during the period that other 8,000m peaks were receiving their first ascents! It is perhaps not surprising that it was the last of the 8,000m peaks to be climbed. Not that its ascent by the North-West Ridge presents any great difficulty. On the contrary, it is now regarded as one of the most straightforward 8,000m climbs and its summit is frequently achieved.

Regarded as a 'holy' mountain by the local Tibetan population, and lying on the route to Mt. Kailash, Shishapangma continues to baffle us. Historians cannot fathom her names - Shishapangma, Xixabangma, Gosainthan. Yet, the mountain is perhaps the most accessible of her genre, rising only a few miles west of the Kathmandu-Lhasa Highway. It was 16 years before the mountain received its second ascent, by a West German team in 1980, and it has been climbed every year since.

Itinerary Overivew

  • Day 01 - Arrive at Kathmandu airport (1345meters). Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 02 - Pre-trip Meeting and Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 03 - Official formalities and Preparation day in Kathmandu. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 04 - Final Preparation day in Kathmandu. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 05 - Fly to Lhasa (3,600meters) from Kathmandu. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 06 and 07 - Sightseeing in Lhasa. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 08 - Drive to Shigatse (3900 meters), 6 hours. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 09 - Drive to Xegar (4000 meters), 6 hours. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 10 - Acclimatization Day. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 11 - Drive to Shishapangma base camp (5000 meters). Overnight at tented camp.
  • Day 12 and 13 - Base camp preparation. Overnight at tented camp.
  • Day 14 - Move to Advanced Base Camp (5600 meters). Overnight at tented camp.
  • Day 15 to 40 - Climb period of Shishapangm. Overnight at Tented Camp.
  • Day 41 and 42 - Cleaning the mountain. Overnight at Tented Camp.
  • Day 43 - Packing Advance base camp. Overnight at Tented Camp.
  • Day 44 - Trek Base Camp and drive Zhangmu. Overnight at guesthouse.
  • Day 45 - Drive back to Kathmandu. Its time for Celeberation. Overnight at hotel.
  • Day 46 - At leisure in Kathmandu. In the evening, we have our farewell celebration and expedition dinner. Overnight at Hotel.
  • Day 47 - Fly from Kathmandu for your final departure.

Experienced Required
You must have a solid experience of climbing skills. It is suitable for experienced, self-sufficient mountaineers. Climbers who have already climbed the peaks like Mera Peak, Island Huascaran, Illimani, Denali, Muztag Ata, Spantik or similar, could well consider Sishapangma. Climbers must be in excellent physical condition. Climbing an 8,000m peak is a tough test of endurance; both physical and psychological. Only having such condition, one has maximum chance of kissing on the top. Sishapangma is the best mountain to train for the climbers who want to attempt the summit of Everest in future.

Our Sishapangma expedition is not "guided" because this is not a realistic proposition in the high-altitude realm of 8,000 meters and above. "Guiding" and being "guided" implies the intimate supervision and care of a "client" by a "Guide" who can be responsible for the direct and immediate control of safety. On 8000 meters peak, such a direct duty-of-care, implicit in the traditional guide-client relationship, is not possible.


Important Note
The above itinerary is not a fixed program but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. Please note that because of climbing High Mountain, it will be necessary to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations as they present themselves. Any changes to the itinerary will be made with a view to maximizing the benefit to the team members and of ensuring their eventual success on the mountain.

Normally climbers will change their departure flights from Kathmandu when they know exactly when the expedition is going to end. We plan to stay at Base Camp for climbing as long as it takes for us to be successful.

Team members should take out private insurance if they wish to be covered against cancellation due to medical or personal reasons. This is called trip Cancellation insurance and can be obtained from your normal travel agent. 

What makes this trip different ?

Ace the Himalaya works closely with and is one of the main supporters of Sambhav Nepal Foundation, a non-political and non-profit social organization. We contribute our support to the remote village of Arupokhari (Gorkha, Nepal) through donation, sponsorship and partnership in various projects.

Donation
Ace the Himalaya donates a percentage of business profits to the foundation on a yearly basis, which supports the ongoing maintenance cost required for Bhairabi Primary school, a community-based school in Arupokhari (plus few other schools in the region).

Sponsorship
One of the major activities of Sambhav Nepal is the children sponsorship program, which is conducted with full collaboration with Ace the Himalaya.

Partnership (Volunteering Program)
The Arupokhari Volunteer Program, devised by Ace the Himalaya and Sambhav Nepal, aims to mobilize teams of experts and interested individuals as an effective and economic measure in providing the human capital for education, health and community development in  Arupokhari village of Gorkha district, western Nepal.

For more details, visit Sambhav Nepal's website www.sambhavnepal.org